Coffee With Lola

Happy Eight of March

March 8th, 2010 § 0

Eight of March, also known as Women’s Day, is celebrated throughout Europe. It is a holiday with no prerequisites, except that of it being a holiday for women only. Although its roots are political, by the time I was in elementary school it transformed into the day on which we made love cards for our moms, and sisters. For many girls, myself included, Eight of March is irrevocably associated with receiving a first bouquet of flowers, and coming of age in recognition of our own femininity.

After moving to the US, I’ve been celebrating Eight of March as a gratitude day. Today, let’s be grateful for the opportunities we have, for careers of our choosing, for rights to our bodies, and ability to freely walk down the street. I heard somewhere to measure the true opportunities of women living in any country means to look at lives of women in the minority groups. The rule applies as much as for women in our countries, as it does to those living in less fortunate corners of the world. So let’s be grateful, and let’s help where we can.

And now, I leave you with a piece by Semezdin Mehmedinović, (excerpted from Sarajevo Blues) about Sarajevo’s siege, and a fleeting, but irreplaceable meaning of a scarf.

INNOCENT CIVILIANS

In front of the Theater-I almost bumped into her-a young woman pops out, spreading a cloud of perfume around her. Her tight skirt cuts her steps short. But this fantastic spectacle-like a spread in a fashion magazine-is only completed by a freshly bathed dalmatian trotting over the crushed cement and broken windows. He runs and weaves happily in her path over the shards of glass: she’s beautiful, and the dog is beautiful. Don’t they care about the war? They do, because shells are falling here: here, right where they are. Of course she’s an innocent civilian, but not all civilians are innocent. There are those who, like retired couples, go out hand in hand for an evening walk in the middle of a war they inspired, the course of its future in their hands. Of course, this business about civilians can get very complicated. You might run int a soldier pointing at the tip of his sneaker and the coagulated blood there that once belonged to a professor who thought that five thousand Muslim kids ought to be killed. Which means if civilians are innocent, soldiers are sinful and guilty. But soldiers, in a normal distribution of power, are just young people whose interests should be protected by some kind of youth movement. Of course nationalistic-macho power cubed (power x power x power) holds generational interest beneath contempt since it conceives of thing in millennial and mythological dimensions. As for feminism, that is, for women who-at least in light of this formula-are simply there to be demeaned, there’s little use in war. In other words: just by looking at nationalistic attitudes regarding generational and gender interests you could see that war was inevitable. But you couldn’t have foreseen that in such a short span of time, a young woman in front of the Theater could arouse the almost forgotten memory of a world in which something whole, beautiful and fragrant exists. Something like a silk scarf.

Ten Tips for Retaining a Language

February 23rd, 2010 § 0

Eighty five year old Boa Sr died earlier this year in the Andaman Islands (Bay of Bengal), taking with her the language Bo. Buried with Boa, and the language Bo, are also customs and a way of living. Language is nation’s most valued treasure – it is a communication wheel and an expression of culture. While cause of language Bo’s extinction was colonization, nowadays an increasing number of people put their native language on a worrisome temporary postponement.

People naturally lose some of their first language when they move to a new country. It suffers whether the move lasts one year, or forever. Accents disappear first, and then word pool decreases in volume. A person finds herself drumming to different slang, and wondering why getting coffee has some other meaning.

In physical sense language is a muscle that weakens if not ‘exercised’ regularly. Don’t exercise it for a few months, and there is a price to pay. Same muscle qualities, however, allow it to resurrect with renewed practice. It doesn’t have to be hard: a newspaper here, a book there, and very quickly one can be in the best (language) shape of their life. Try the tips below!

1. READ
If you move from your country of origin at the age of ten, you will have a vocabulary of a ten year old in your native language. If you leave at nineteen, the vocab stays at nineteen as well. You have to read to improve volume of the words you use. Start reading websites, news portals, articles, and blogs. Web is a limitless resource in every language imaginable. Continue on with a few classics in your language. Try reading Dostoevsky, or read books written by the country’s great writers.

2. SPEAK
Once I arrogantly laughed at a French professor who warned that if I didn’t take time to speak Bosnian every day, I could get into a habit of forgetting it. He believed speaking was a sure way to cultivate language knowledge, and flow. He was right, (so thank you Mr. Fitzgerald, I dedicate this post to you)! When you move to a different environment, and immerse in a new life, you pick up that environment’s customs, language, and thoughts. Not practicing your first language results in a deficit. Pretty soon you will be translating thoughts word for word. Literal translations lose the meaning, aid the loss of words, and cause the flow of language to be choppy. So – speak at every opportunity you get, and create opportunities to speak in your first language when there are none. Call up a friend that speaks the same language. Get in touch with your family. Talk with your mother! If you’ve gotten into a bad habit of speaking your second language with the fam, take every effort to change this. (Even if it means stopping mid-sentence and starting over again.) Take a friend from your country of origin to dinner. Start a book club, an appreciation group, or Skype with someone! Remember that each time you take the easy route, you are that much poorer.

3. WRITE
Writing is the third most important tool in keeping up to date with your first language. The act of putting words on paper, and later reading them helps you practice the alphabet, format your thoughts logically, and brush up sentence construction. If you wanted to start a journal to document your road to success this is your chance. All you need is a notebook / writing pad, and a pen. If you prefer typing, start a blog about something that interests you. (Example: recipes, fashion, design, history… ) You can also contact a newspaper, or an online news portal and market your articles. If you are a private person who prefers to communicate with a few people, then stick to emails or snail-mail. Find a pen-pal. Just make sure you spend time writing weekly.

4. TRANSLATE
If you have a mastery of grammar and sharp writing skills, then translating may be a perfect way for you to maintain your language skills. To translate, you will not only be using the first three tips excessively, but you will have to translate the meaning of the matter you are translating. Finding adequate words that translate meaning from one language to another also commands a knowledge of cultures. If you feel confident with the above requirements, start translating small pieces for free, and progress from there. Most places will not require you to have an interpreter’s degree if the quality and volume of your work is of a high caliber. Once your portfolio is polished start charging for your language skills.

5. ELEMENTARY GRAMMAR
By the time a child finishes elementary school they have been provided the opportunity to learn correct grammar of their first language. If you’ve forgotten some basic grammar rules ask a friend to send you an elementary school language book, and a practice workbook. Dedicate a couple of hours to it weekly. It is not embarrassing to forget the things you no longer use, what’s embarrassing is knowing you forgot and not doing anything about it.

6. LISTEN
Put on some nostalgic old music. Scout out new bands and singers. Most radio stations with websites stream live which means that you can now listen at the same time as it’s being broadcast. Ask a friend to recommend a radio show, or a station, and tune in.

7. WATCH
Same as radio stations: some TV stations stream, and there is always the satellite dish. Also, Netflix carries a great amount of foreign films, so grab your country’s classics.

8. NEW CONCEPTS
Just as you leave your country of origin with a certain vocabulary, you also leave it with the knowledge you’ve acquired until that point in time. We learn something new every day, and the worst thing to assume is that concepts translate word for word. When you learn a new concept or a historical detail, strive to translate it right away. Grab a dictionary, encyclopedia, or a history book, and learn what the event/person/place/thing is called in your first language. Concepts and history are interpreted in different ways across the globe, and although most concepts will be the same this is not the rule. By translating new concepts you not only improve your language skills, but your general knowledge as well.

9. TUTOR
There is a saying that a teacher appears when you are ready to learn. This works both ways. When you are ready to teach, a student appears. Believe it or not, there are people at this very moment who want to learn your native language for fun, as a job requirement, or both. Do local colleges in your area offer your first language? If yes, would they hire a tutor, or allow one to post fliers on campus? If no, has there been an interest in the language? To teach at most universities, you will have to have a degree /certificate, however you can always meet the professor and ask for a short spot in class, introduce yourself to the students, and offer your tutoring services. Additional tip: State Department language schools can be a good place to start tutoring also.

10. KIDS
Many people fail to teach their first language to their kids. Understand that your laziness is robbing your children of an invaluable resource, and get to work! Studies say it is best to speak to child in your native language only, and to never switch. For example: if you speak French, and your partner speaks English, (and you’re living in an English speaking country) you would speak to your children in French only, and your partner in English only. If for both of you French is the first language (and you live in an English speaking country), pick who will speak in French, and who in English. If you haven’t been consistent, your kids are probably going to pout about having to learn. Give it a few years. They’ll love you when they’re all grown up and bilingual.

<3,
LOLA

(Bosnian) Recipe: Stuffed Peppers Version 1 (Punjene Paprike)

February 18th, 2010 § 0

Until recently I was a kitchen atom bomb. I’ve since learned a few tricks of the trade and will share them. Below is a finger-licking Stuffed Peppers recipe a 10 year old could easily prep. Stuffed Peppers are a staple of Bosnian cuisine/ food. Classic recipes involve rice & beans stuffing. My sister puts a spin on hers and stuffs them with grated potatoes. She graciously agreed to let me post it. Thank you Saša!

Lola’s Tips:
1. Always wash your vegetables well.
2. Do not wear mascara during the grating process.
3. Vegetable oil is a must for this recipe.
4. Find the smallest sweet peppers you can. Stay away from gargantuan grocery store peppers with a diameter of a small country. Farmer’s Market, or Whole Foods are potential places to look. Peppers in the photos are about 1-2 inches in diameter, and about 4-7 inches long.

Stuffed Peppers Version 1

Prep Time: 20-30 min
Baking Time: 30 min

Ingredients:

10-15 Small Sweet Peppers
1 Red Onion
2 lbs of Potatoes
2-3 Pinches of Ground Black Pepper
2-3 Pinches of Salt
Vegetable Oil
1 Sour Cream
1 French Baguette

Cut the pepper stems, & clean out the seeds (Photo 1). After peeling the potatoes and onion, grate them into a pot half filled with water. After grating, squeeze the grated onion & potatoes to get the starch out, and place into an empty bowl. Add salt, pepper, and 1 tsp of vegetable oil and mix it in (Photo 2). Put a tiny bit on a teaspoon and lick to see whether it is salty/peppery enough for your taste. Stuff the peppers with the mixture (Photo 3). Stuff only 75% of each pepper as the stuffing expands when baked. Place in a generously pre-oiled baking pan (Photo 4).

Preheat oven to 400F degrees and put the peppers in. Lower to 350F after 10 minutes when the peppers start to blush. The peppers will be done quickly; while the stuffing takes longer so lowering the heat gives stuffing time to be done. Keep checking your peppers. You will know they are done when they are soft, and the stuffing is coming out a little bit. This happens approximately after 25-35 minutes of baking.

Take the peppers out and let cool for a few minutes. Serve them with sour cream. Cut up the baguette and dip in the remaining oil in the pan. Serve with peppers. Voila!

You don’t have to eat 9. I was really hungry that day.

<3, Lola.

Women Of The World: Croatia Part 2

February 16th, 2010 § 1

(From top Left to bottom Left clockwise: 1.Osijek via via-tours; 2. Dubrovnik by Sandro Mancuso; 3. Plitvice in snow by blagi; 4. Zagorje; 5. Varaždin by jamsklee kite; 6. Split via fesb-hr; 7. Krk by been around.)

LIFE IN CROATIA

(Continuation of Women Of The World: Croatia Part 1)

LOLA: How possible is it to lead a good life in Croatia? (Let’s define ‘good’ as a regular middle class life: opportunity to find a satisfying job that pays enough to cover expenses, being able to go on vacation, send kids to school, etc.)
MISS SNJEŽANA: A good life in that context sounds very SciFi. If you do not have parents who will help you buy an apartment/home, it is questionable that you will ever be able to afford it. If you are lucky to find a job paying $1,000/mo, more than 1/4 goes on food&hygiene, and you don’t need to follow a diet on this budget. Another 1/4 goes to utilities, and more than 1/4 goes to rent. Finally, there are transportation expenses, public transport mainly as you have to be rich to drive a car. One liter of gas is $1 (Lola’s note: about $4/gallon). The rest you can spend on a pair of jeans, and an occasional outing at McDonald’s.

LOLA: What annual salary would provide for a good living?
MISS SNJEŽANA: $20,000 sounds realistic for a couple to live a normal life. A single person would need twice as much as they cannot get loans easily. (Lola’s Note: $20,000 after taxes.)

LOLA: Do other cities or towns in Croatia offer opportunities for a good life?
MISS SNJEŽANA: I ran away from one of those cities, and my answer is no. Exceptions are to be congratulated; those exceptions are people in the tourism, or people who do not miss the city at all. This is a small group of people as everything is centralized in Zagreb. Of course some have good luck to live in the country and do farming as they prefer this type of life, but even in this instance it’s hard to start from scratch.

LOLA: You’ve somewhat covered this before but what are the opportunities for home ownership?
MISS SNJEŽANA: One sq meter of real estate is $1,750-$2,700. Not doable for a regular person. This recession has brought down prices, but it is harder to obtain loans now, so in effect nothing changed. Parents generally leave apartments to, or buy apartments for their children if they are able to do so. Other people rent. Most cannot afford an apartment.

LOLA: How did the two decade old change in the socioeconomic system affect the country and people?
MISS SNJEŽANA: One can still sense communist way of thinking. Croatians are not motivated employees. They look for ways to work less, and if possible find someone else to do their job masked under ‘team work’. Cheating is widespread in schools and on exams. Diploma is a valued source, instead of the knowledge, so everyone is running after that.

The country is filled with uneducated rich, (who under no circumstance fall under the category of intellectuals), but they own properties and businesses they bought for $1 because they were in the right place during privatization. The population is becoming illiterate – I mean proper diction, proper writing, and such. Even the TV anchors do not speak proper Croatian literary language, which is shameful, while the language experts cannot agree about simple rules. Natal rate is low, and it’s hard to see a child on the street. Kindergartens are full to capacity, some schools work in three shifts, yet others are completely empty. Everything is expensive. We import everything, and buy because we are in the ‘want’ of everything.

The car is a status symbol, as is an apartment. For some, name brands are a status symbol. It is full of contradictions: you wonder how are shopping centers full, how everyone has enough to look exquisite, get their hair, nails and make-up done, and are out and about. Yet others are marginalized, hidden in their own poverty, and do not know whether they will pull out from this. There are a lot of humanitarian projects: generally it is the citizens funding what the state should be responsible for. Outer appearances are important, and the insides are rotting.

LOLA: What positive trends have you noticed in the past ten years?
MISS SNJEŽANA: We are slowly on the way to become a part of the European Union. Very slowly. We brought the Internet into everyday life, and everyone has a cell phone, (some more than one), and a land line. This is a positive byproduct of selling the only telecommunications company to foreigners. A lot of new shopping centers opened, and there is no need to travel outside the country for certain goods anymore.

LOLA: How do you think will EU influence the country, and contentment with life?
MISS SNJEŽANA: Admittance into the EU is our only option for survival and normalization. Some citizens are afraid of becoming slaves coming into the union, but this is the result lack of basic economics’ knowledge. Some are afraid that they will have to start to work at last, (most government workers), while some are excited their talents are finally going to pay off.

LOLA: How can a country change for better: by people and a new awareness, by changing political structure, or something entirely else?
MISS SNJEŽANA: There is a proverb that people have a leadership they deserve. If people and their consciousness changed, political structures, and the rest would change as well. In Croatia they made it illegal to picket in front of government facilities, and this is why there are no demonstrations. Not even college students want to demonstrate and get on the streets. It was the High School students that organized latest demonstrations, and won the right to extend state examination dates. Younger generations could potentially change a lot of things.

LOLA: How do the elderly, and minority groups live?
MISS SNJEŽANA: I’m surprised they are still alive. However it is great that one of our Big Brother winners was Romani, and that Romas and Muslims have a representative in the parliament. Seventeen Roma attend universities in Zagreb. As far as the elderly, only those who earned their pensions in the West live with dignity.

FASHION

LOLA: Is fashion important to you?
MISS SNJEŽANA: I am not “overwhelmed” with fashion in the sense that I do not follow trends, but I like to dress well. If I could afford it, I would definitely invest in a few quality items.

LOLA: You have 500 Euros, and an hour at the mall, what items do you pick up first?
MISS SNJEŽANA: I like the classic look that is always in. I love monochromatic clothing, and minimalism. I would buy black pumps, one cocktail dress, a Guess bag, & Chanel shades. I think that would cover it.

LOLA: Most women in Croatia are always so put together and beautiful. What is the secret? Are there rituals, or do people expect one to look good?
MISS SNJEŽANA: As I mentioned outer appearance is important. People are not relaxed due to other peoples’ opinions regarding their look. Although I would not agree that others expect you to look great, people are often envious. I think that the secret in the everlasting beauty that prevails in the Balkans is connected with primitivism, as the dream of many women is to marry rich. Therefore they are brought up in the spirit of always looking good if they are to win over, and keep the man.

LOLA: Any suggestions for cosmetics?
MISS SNJEŽANA: Prepared cosmetics: natural olive oil with a drop of lemon juice is the law for skin! Everything else poisons more than helps, but marketing experts always excite us with another item. Decorative cosmetics: Chanel and Shiseido.

LOLA: Favorite designers?
MISS SNJEŽANA: Armani, Lagerfeld, Ferre, Valentino (I like all of them very much).

LOLA: Favorite Croatian designer?
MISS SNJEŽANA: I dislike them all very much. I couldn’t really say as they plagiarize each other.

LOLA: Who is your fashion icon and why?
MISS SNJEŽANA: I don’t have one. Why? I don’t need a leader in that sense.

HOT THEMES

LOLA: What do people do in their free time?
MISS SNJEŽANA: They hang around coffee shops, and go shopping.

LOLA: Hanging out…
MISS SNJEŽANA: Younger ones go out in groups, but they tend to separate after they find partners. There are no rules though.

LOLA: When do people start dating?
MISS SNJEŽANA: Starting in High School, at perhaps 16. At least that was the trend in ‘my time’.

LOLA: What about sex?
MISS SNJEŽANA: One recent study suggested that on average 17 is the age boys get intimately involved, and 18 for girls. But I am a skeptical. I think it’s earlier.

LOLA: Is sex discussed between friends/family?
MISS SNJEŽANA: Depends which friend. As far as parents, they’d rather not think about it. It took long to introduce sexual education in schools. Church influence is strong. As of recently even the shops were closed on Sundays.

LOLA: What is the average marrying age?
MISS SNJEŽANA: When the girl gets pregnant. People with college education tend to get married later. Some couples date for years, some marry after one, it all depends.

LOLA: What are the weddings like?
MISS SNJEŽANA: A lot of pomposity so others see how much was spent, or to show families’ prosperity. All the guests sound car horns of kitschy decorated cars as the bride and groom are sent on their way. It is a very primitive custom of ‘father selling his daughter to groom who offers most’ type, and the groom of course seems like he’s offering most – awful! Of course there are exceptions for those that want a private, tasteful wedding.

LOLA: How is divorce looked upon?
MISS SNJEŽANA: Divorces are more common nowadays, but not as common as in the US. Although the environment is somewhat conservative, I didn’t notice any prejudices against the divorcees in society, (except by the Church).

LOLA: Tell us about your relationship!
MISS SNJEŽANA: My boyfriend and I have been together for two years, and living together for that long as well. We met on the internet.

LOLA: Five best things about your partner are…
MISS SNJEŽANA: He is exactly like me. Just kidding. He is very cultured, perhaps even too much for these spaces. He is dependable, responsible (you can really rely on him). He is incredibly intelligent. He has a great sense of humor, and he is fun. He practices equality with me, (it is normal for him as a man to cook and clean).

LOLA: Anything you’d like to change?
MISS SNJEŽANA: He is very temperamental and can get upset about simple things. I’d like for him not to get so stressed out over little things.

THE FUTURE & MISS SNJEŽANA’S RECOMMENDATIONS

LOLA: Where do you see the future of the country?
MISS SNJEŽANA: In the EU.

LOLA: Closing thoughts?
MISS SNJEŽANA: I answered the questions in the most honest way I could as I do want to translate the most realistic picture possible. It stands that some things were more depressing – I tried to soften them, but I believe that many peoples around the world are seeing similar phenomena with variations from culture to culture. Everything is relative here: there is a Balkan influence, and that of the Western Europe, but the Balkan influence is stronger. I did not mean to insult anyone, and I deeply apologize to those who many find this hurtful.

Lola’s Notes:
Again, I am grateful to Snježana for an open dialogue. The situation in Croatia is shared by many if not most of the countries in transition. Big upheaval happens during time of big changes and they are most felt in lives of regular people. It is my hope that by taking a look at ourselves and others we can inspire progressive ideas & solutions for living, while being thankful and take note of those things that are working well.

Women Of The World: Croatia Part 1

February 15th, 2010 § 4

(From top Left to bottom Left clockwise: 1.Tkalčić street by Vjekoslav1; 2. Miss Snježana; 3. Fireworks by DeymosD; 4. Streetcars by seanfderry-studenna; 5. Croatian National Theatre by LusoFox; 6.The fountain Manduševac by Polježičanin; 7. Gornji Grad via hrphotocontest.)

LIVING IN ZAGREB

Women of the World: Croatia segment was completed over a year ago. Due to a hiatus from CWL I am just now posting it.

Central and Eastern Europe witnessed great economic, and other changes during the nineties. Some people benefited, but for the vast amount of people adaption to this new reality has been difficult. Snježana was my choice for the interview because she gave reliable and honest insight into Croatian life in the period of transition.

Snježana is an educated, smart, beautiful, and opinionated urbanite. She has a sharp mind of an individualist who lives with a well-developed personal code of ethics. She also has a wicked sense of humor which is her most endearing quality. I thank Snježana for patience, and willingness to share her daily life.

COUNTRY: Croatia (Central and Southeastern Europe)
CAPITAL: Zagreb
POPULATION & SIZE: 4.5 Million; 22,000 sq mi (about the size of WV)
PROTAGONIST: Miss Snježana
LOCATION: Zagreb since 2000
OCCUPATION: Graduated Economist, & Make-Up Artist (Lola’s note: she graduated since the interview)

MISS SNJEŽANA: Regarding the occupation question, I have always been dedicated to more than one profession. Since I am currently studying, you could say I am primarily a student of Economics. I also have a degree in Tourism Hotel Management, but since I changed my living location my days in the tourism industry are over.

LOLA: One day in Snježana’s life goes like..?
MISS SNJEŽANA: Ha ha… Well… Since my classes ended, it seems as if I am doing absolutely nothing, yet my days are too short for everything I would like to do. First thing after waking up is a cup of coffee with my boyfriend. This is a real ritual without which my day is lopsided. After coffee I prepare lunch, and study. Studying takes up most of my day. I may go shopping, go out to the city for a walk, or a night out on town. Come to think of it I live like a (studying) housewife.

LOLA: What do you do in your free time?
MISS SNJEŽANA: My greatest passion is art in any shape or form: painting, graphics, interiors, landscape design, aquarium design. Anything to do with aesthetics. The art of film is my favorite medium (from documentaries to action movies), followed by comic books. I must admit that I am also quite a gourmet chef. I would love to be able to say I have time to read, but after continuous studying, my eyes grow tired. It’s ‘easier’ to relax, and watch a movie or a TV series. (Although watching TV also has its effect on the eyes.)

LOLA: Dearest writer?
MISS SNJEŽANA: Gabriel Garcia Marquez. His One hundred years of solitude is by far my favorite book. This book has such vibrant atmosphere that I literally ‘lived’ there while reading it. As far as authors, I definitely like Eckhart Tolle, and all his books.

LOLA: What made you move to Zagreb?
MISS SNJEŽANA: I came to Zagreb because I could not find work in Dalmatia, where I lived before. (Lola’s Note: Dalmatia is Croatia’s coastal region on the Adriatic Sea.) I heard that Zagreb had greater opportunities, (for employment). Since I had no offers upon arriving, I had to search for them myself. A great thing about Zagreb is absolutely everything in the country is concentrated here. I was happy for a while. However, after I experienced European metropolitan cities, I can safely say Zagreb cannot yet be called a metropolis as it lacks aspects to be given that title just yet.

LOLA: What are five best things about living in your city?
MISS SNJEŽANA: 1. Unlike most other cities in Croatia, Zagreb has a great public transportation. It doesn’t have a subway yet, but still there is a street car system that runs all night. 2. Almost all of country’s universities are located here. 3. It is easier to find a job as most of the country’s resources and investments are also here. 4. Also, there are many shopping centers quickly becoming the cheapest and only way to have fun for an average citizen. 5. One fourth of all Croatians live in Zagreb, yet it is easy to run into a friend while you’re in the city.

LOLA: What places in Zagreb should one visit?
MISS SNJEŽANA: The main square, and the narrow core of Zagreb has an incredible atmosphere, especially Gornji Grad. Marija Jurić Zagorka, our first female journalist, described the history of Gornji Grad in her novels. Zagreb was the first city in Europe to build a public toilet, and it exists to this day. (Tip: it is immediately in the center of the city, so if you have to go, perhaps you’ll have to visit it. ) I recommend a walk in Maksimir (forest-park), and the Botanical Gardens. In fact, there are very many places you can visit in a day because you only need a few hours to see the Zoo, Botanical Gardens, or a museum.

Another special place is Hrelić. That’s a flea market located near wasteland, open only on Sundays. You can buy absolutely anything there. Some of the more bizarre things are: half-spent toothpaste, old LPs, tapes, old double-deck player which (of course) still works, old clothes and shoes, autos, second hand books, old mags… In short: a kaleidoscope of stuff thrown away. A visit to Hrelić, of course, is not a visit motivated by shopping, but by fun because you can smile/laugh when you see some faraway objects of your childhood being sold for a cent.

For hipsters there are a yuppie bars: Peoples, Fly, & Papaya, and for the alternative crew there are smaller places: Močvara, Route66; there is also a bar just for bikers: Purgeraj. A trend for turbo-folk music has to be mentioned, as it is changing the atmosphere in many bars.

Zagreb isn’t overly ‘tourist friendly’ as it’s easy to get lost in the traffic. What does make it friendly is that many people speak English (especially younger generations), and they are very ready to help. If you get lost just ask around. City center is tourist friendly as it is walkable, and this is where most notable things are located anyway. My recommendation to a newbie: buy a map of Zagreb and discover the city for yourself. This way you will see some of city’s extremely interesting highlights that did not necessarily make it into a tourist guide.

LOLA: Where does one go to experience the skyline and moonlight?
MISS SNJEŽANA: One option is Gornji Grad, as it is easy to get to. Second is somewhat far away, from the top of Sljeme.

LOLA: The most beautiful things about Croatia are?
MISS SNJEŽANA: Croatia has the coast, sea, and islands with an uncorrupted nature. Once you leave the city it is possible to see cows, sheep, goats, chickens, and other animals. (Sometimes it is possible to see them at your neighbor’s as well.) I am alluding to the connection between tradition and life, meaning you can still find healthy, naturally produced food in your grocery store.

Also the Croatian national foods such as Roast Turkey with Baked Noodles, (Purica s mlincima), and Zagroje Cheese Strukli (Zagorske štrukle). On the coast there is the Dalmatian Stewed Beef Dish (Pašticada s njokama), my very favorite Sheep Cheese from the island of Pag (Paški sir), and the perfect Kabola wines.

Croatia also possesses very special architecture influenced by architect Hermann Bolle. Finally, cities and coffee shops are always full of people, even during work hours, and there lingers a high presence of city life.

LOLA: What are some not so good things about living in Croatia?
MISS SNJEŽANA: The infrastructure is bad, especially the highway infrastructure. Also, the traffic is insane. If you don’t live in the center of the city and you are using public transportation, then your trip to work or university becomes a real adventure.

There is an absence of real values – meaning that culture, education and friendship are categories that are becoming extinct. Money and power are the only important things nowadays. “Take the money and run!” is a great way to characterize countries in transition. Nepotism and corruption are present in all spheres of life. Inertness of politicians on top causes bad economy politics, bad social politics, and an awful administration/ bureaucracy. Finally, the education system is bad.

LOLA: What do you see as a solution for these?
MISS SNJEŽANA: Plans for the subway system are underway, although it will require some ten years. The media could, at last, give attention to real values instead of exaggerating consumerism, power, and politicians. The corruption is, slowly but surely, being uncovered. Nepotism, however, is a greater illness that cannot be uncovered as easily. My hope is that with entering the European Union we will have to vote for those able to lead instead of voting for cousins and neighbors. As far as inertness, it is not so easy to answer. I’m not sure if anyone knows how to fix this – perhaps if the politicians would start to listen to field experts.

(From top Left to bottom Left clockwise: 1. Cheese from the island of Pag (Paški sir) via photoforumistria; 2. Zagreb City Map via kod-kazalista; 3. Kabola Wine; 4. Croatian Prosciutto (Pršut) via dalmatiancooking; 5. Zagroje Cheese Strukli (Zagorske štrukle) via zombieboy; 6. Stewed Beef Dish (Pašticada s njokama) via coolinarika; 7. Roast Turkey with Baked Noodles (Purica s mlincima) via ladysram.)

EDUCATION/ SCHOOL SYSTEM/ WORK ENVIRONMENT

LOLA: Describe the education system in the country.
MISS SNJEŽANA: After 8 years of elementary education (Lola’s note: elementary and middle schools are combined into one) one takes exams to get into high schools based on their area of interest. General high schools, and high schools for tourism, economics, medicine, and the electro-technical fields are 4 years long. Trade schools take about 3 years (cosmetology, cooking, auto-mechanical, etc).

Until recently one could skip high school, but it is now required by law to get a high school education. After high school there is a national graduation exam. If you pass, you are able to go on to the university.

LOLA: What are the opportunities for attending university & is it necessary to have a college education to live a decent life?
MISS SNJEŽANA: Whoever can afford it is now doing it, even people who would not otherwise consider going to college. Tuition, and room&board expenses doubled within the last few years, while the standard of living stayed the same. This is unusual as before this period institutions of higher education were affordable.

Having a university degree is not necessary to live. In fact most employers do not appreciate good education, and salaries cannot make up for time and expense invested into education. There are of course individuals who rely on their education. This all depends on the type of degree, and how much practical knowledge it is offering. Our education system bases itself on the memorizing theoretical information, and not on the use/practice of actual knowledge.

LOLA: How many years does it take to get a degree, and what is the money investment?
MISS SNJEŽANA: An average degree, let’s say a degree in economics, is obtained in 4 years, while ’stronger’ degrees such as law or medicine, can take from 6 to 10 years. (‘Formally’ these also are supposed to last 4 years.) There is a difference between semester requirements, and time taken to do the exams.

The process is underway to transform the system to the Bologna system where one university degree would take 3 years to obtain, with the option to attend additional 2 years and get a Master’s degree. However, it is still unknown what this will do to the job market. For example I am studying based on the old 4 year system and still don’t know which title I will obtain.

One year consists of 2 semesters. Price for one year is about $1,000. Statistics note that the average income in Croatia is about $900/mo. Many with a college degree earn $950/mo, while some without any degrees earn up to $1200/mo. There are no rules.

LOLA: What are the job opportunities like after college?
MISS SNJEŽANA: If you have a recommendation then you have a good chance of getting hired. However, if you have no connections it is very hard to find a decent job. You can always get an underpaid job with bad working environment, bad human relations, and a high turnover rate. In these situations no one is satisfied. People here cannot choose to do what they love so they often school themselves for the professions based on market needs as this guarantees an easier job placement.

LOLA: What do people do if they lose their job?
MISS SNJEŽANA: They hope to get a new one… Hope dies last. Some get help from the state funds that cannot even cover one month of food. Some apply for a different type of welfare, providing even less money, but one is eligible for this only if they have absolutely nothing. Final and most often occurring scenario is that people ask for help from family as otherwise they would end up homeless.

LOLA: Is a career change doable at let’s say 35?
MISS SNJEŽANA: It depends. For men, this isn’t a hurdle, but if you are a woman with children this is hard. It is hard to achieve a career as is, and when you achieve something not many people would opt out to risk and change this – people aren’t flexible enough.

LOLA: Are women treated equally in the society? (Not only on paper.)
MISS SNJEŽANA: Again, this depends on the situation. Some branches are typically female, and men “have nothing to do there”. While many men may apply for an administrative assistant position, they will not get the job if the boss is male. I don’t remember ever seeing a guy that was on a cleaning crew, except in auto shops. Also, I’ve seen zero women doing construction, or some other typically male profession, as she would not be taken seriously. My own passion for wall painting failed because of this, even though I am talented enough to paint better than the ‘conventional maestros’.

Some firms prefer women and consider them better employees, yet the man who works for the same firm doing the same job will have a higher salary. I personally have not witnessed that women have a smaller chance for success, but women are often let go after pregnancy, and they will have a hard time finding a job after 30 especially if they are without a degree.

Statistically women comprise most of unemployed persons, but I think that younger, educated, and ambitious women can rise up the ranks easier than men. Yet, most leadership and managerial positions are dominated by men as they generally own the firms. However I believe this to be a result of affinity, not sexism. The society still values men more. Every father wants a son, women are still homemakers.

Although with younger generations this trend is slowly dissipating.

LOLA: How much influence do women have in a Croatian everyday life? (Societal, rather than familial influence.)
MISS SNJEŽANA: There are only a few women politicians, and influential women in general. Women influence is almost undetectable. Often women are women’s worst enemy, so I do not expect greater changes in the field of women’s rights. In Croatia an unmarried woman, or a woman living by herself cannot undergo a fertility treatment. Yet the natal rate is devastatingly low. That says enough.

Lola’s Note: Stay tuned for Part 2 in which we discuss politics, sex, and fashion!

Quote – Marcel Duchamp

February 5th, 2009 § 0

“I have forced myself to contradict myself in order to avoid conforming to my own taste.“- Marcel Duchamp

5 Ways to Your Inner French Woman

February 4th, 2009 § 4

Photo by Picardie Mouv 2.0

French woman possesses a certain allure. To me she is most well represented in Vanessa Paradis: long contours of smooth skin, innate sartorial expertise, and ballet-like pose. I’ve met quite a few French women, and they all seem to posses those qualities. French girls are bred on sensuality of Colette, they are fed with exquisite food, and have a history of equal, but definitely more pronounced femininity. Borrowing from Helena Frith Powell, Debra Ollivier, numerous articles, and my own observations, what follows are tips to awaken our inner French woman.

1. Basics are Key.
How many of you, while watching “Total Makeover” type shows realized most of the women on there could have skipped many of surgical procedures if they did three things: their hair, nails, and makeup?! There is a great quote by Helena Frith Powell: “There are probably just as many plain girls in France as there are in England and America but they don’t look plain.” I prefer to think we all have something beautiful in us, and I haven’t to this day met a person who did not have something beautiful about them. But I digress. One of the first steps to finding that inner femininity that French express so well is to take care of simple things. Budget out a manicure here and there. Take great care of your face. Pluck those eyebrows. Once you start doing this on regular basis you will notice even more beautiful things about yourself. And once you have the simple, basic beauty look down, it only gets better. But first, you have to remember the basics!

2. Skinny On the Skinny.
French women also have the nutrition down. Most don’t eat fast food, wouldn’t be caught with a soda, and books have been written about their inability to gain weight. So what do they eat/drink? Cheese, meat, vegetables, chocolate, and wine. And they hate exercise! From what I observed, and read, these are their tricks: they prepare fresh food every day, they have three regularly scheduled meals, they eat no snacks, they walk a lot, and they portion their food. If they overeat at a restaurant, lighter meals are on the menu for the next couple of days. And instead of a scale, a French woman will use the old method of measuring weight by tightness of the clothes. What I love about this approach is the lack of rigidity. In most other countries there is a prevalence of women adhering to a punishing regimen to gain the figure of their choice. Food is a pleasure, French know this, and they plan it accordingly. Some of the steps to take toward this type of nutrition are as follows: kick out the chips and snacks, sip wine instead of Pepsi, get a smaller plate and fill half of it with veggies first then add the rest, and enjoy. Take each bite and drown in its tastiness, feel the texture of the food, make love with it, take it for every drip of flavor it has. And always be thankful!

3. As Above, So Below.
Underneath a French woman’s clothes is a matching pair of high quality lingerie. Why would one dream of mismatching when there is such a discipline in a well-made pair that matches? Just as we spend time choosing body washes good enough for our body, we should spend time collecting great lingerie. Yes, collecting! Lingerie is an investment, something one budgets for. Don’t despair if your collection is small at first. You can even start with wearing better lingerie on weekends only, until your collection is large enough to proceed into the weekdays. Lingerie, it is not something you should get only for those showcasing occasions. Lingerie is made with women in mind. It is for you! It is so your body feels loved, and nourished when you put on that perfect lace set. Start by solemnly swearing you will: A) NEVER, EVER, NEVER again buy just a bra, or just panties, (especially not in bulk). You shall buy them in pair. A matching pair! B) You will take care of your lingerie by hand washing it, and hanging it to dry. (Eager to start your collection? Few suggestions: Agent Provocateur, Victoria’s Secret, La Senza, La Perla.)

4. Feed The Soul.
While the French have a tradition of great literature, what is even greater is their tradition of absorbing this literature. This translates into women who take time to really develop their knowledge of philosophy, literature, music, and the arts. They are unafraid to join any conversation because they have spent time honing their opinions. It is as important to read a book, as it is to find the right face cream. Spectacularly sexy is their love for museums, libraries, and shows. This starts in schools where great philosophers are taught not as easy electives in college, but as a part of regular scholarly curriculum. Luckily for the rest of us, learning is not something confined to school only. We can and should take every opportunity to broaden our intellectual horizons. Start your French reading connection with: Flaubert, Colette, Sartre, & De Beauvoir. I guarantee it will feed your mind and soul.

5. Quality Over Quantity, Always.
Their homes are not as big, yet somehow always perfect. Their wardrobes small, but all the clothes fit. Their cars tiny, still they travel far. What, exactly, is the trick? French women always choose quality over quantity. Everything is picked with an eye of an observer who knows what they have been looking for. There are no bulk purchases. There are no “five for the price of one”. If something fits, you don’t need five of each. You choose one that is perfect. Choose the details in your life, so they don’t choose you. Always look for quality. So when you have a few signature pieces in your home, there is no need for unnecessary space fillers. When you build a set of clothes that you love, you won’t need two closets to fit it all. When you decide where to go, it won’t matter what transportation got you there. Don’t despair if you don’t get a hang of it all at once. Quality is something that comes over time, with practice. And if you direct yourself to make conscious choices when you are acquiring something, in time you too will find that the quality of your life has immensely improved.

<3
Lola

Women Of The World: Austria Part 2

February 1st, 2009 § 0

Quick Recap: in part 1 of the interview with Miss Irena, we found out about her life, and living in Vienna as it relates to career, lifestyle, and opportunities. In part 2, we find out the juicy!

SEX & RELATIONSHIPS

Lola: Do young people hang out separately or in groups?
Miss Irena: Mostly in mixed groups with both guys and girls.

Lola: Around what age do young Austrians start getting into love relationships?
Miss Irena: Hm.. I like the question. In “my time” it was around 15-16. Now it is around 14.

Lola: What about sex?
Miss Irena: It seems as if the age is lowering. I would say the average is around 16.

Lola: Is sex becoming more casual?
Miss Irena: Yes, although I think that’s a trend in developed countries in the past few decades.

Lola: How is the marriage looked upon in Austria?
Miss Irena: As the divorce rates are high, marriage is not very praised. However, people still do get married and prepare extravagant weddings. Those living in smaller cities get are more likely to marry compared to Viennese.

Lola: What are the weddings like?
Miss Irena: Some people make smaller ones, some prefer something more elaborate. The preparations start at least six months in advance. Most popular weddings are held outside the city, in the castles, gardens, etc.

Lola: How is cheating looked upon?
Miss Irena: People are quiet and calculating where cheating is concerned. Everyone is bothered with it, and no one wants to experience it! My opinion is that it happens, but it is not talked about. One never shares their dirty laundry with the neighbors in Austria. Everything is discussed between four walls. I cannot speak for every couple in the intimacy of their home, but the statistics are telling us that infidelity happens often, and both men and women cheat.

Lola: Do couples tend to stay together after a huge disagreement or is the divorce the route most taken?
Miss Irena: As I’ve mentioned, the divorce is a regular occurrence. Austrians are less inclined to compromise, and sacrifice, and will often go for something different, or a solo life, if things in the relationship start to bother them.

FASHION

Lola: How important is fashion for women in Austria?
Miss Irena: It’s very important, especially women from ex-Yu who dress really well. Austrian women like to get dressed up as well, but more casually. Still, when something is fashionable (trend for this winter was black fishnets, black shorts, and high heels), the entire city will go out and buy it. This of course is true for women who like fashion. Alternative girls, and girls who do not care about fashion (there are a lot of them in Vienna), are completely un-phased by these things. I am speaking here for Vienna, as I do not know about other places.

Lola: How is style different in Austria and other parts of Europe?
Miss Irena: There are a loooooooooot less stores here compared to London, Paris, New York, and “real” world metropolises. It’s not that there isn’t a choice, everyone can find something that looks good on them, but in the end most girls wear the same things that they bought in similar stores. Everything is uniformed this way.

Lola: Your fave designers?
Miss Irena: Roberto Cavalli, and Versace. Affordable: Zara, Mango.

Lola: Fave Austrian designers?
Miss Irena: I cannot give concrete designer names as Austria does not have a very big fashion scene.

Lola: What accessories could you not live without?
Miss Irena: Earrings, and bags (big and small).

Lola: Fave mag?
Miss Irena: Biggest magazine for women here is WOMAN. I like Cosmo, but Croatian rather than German edition.

Lola: Let’s say you have only $200 budget for wardrobe for the entire next year. What do you spend it on?
Miss Irena: A good pair of boots, few shirts, and accessories.

Lola: Advice for fashionistas?
Miss Irena: Do not run after every new trend as some clothes are not good enough even though they may be popular that month.

BEAUTY SECRETS

Miss Irena: Regular face cleansing is a MUST! I never go to bed with makeup. Regular caring for the face is also important, with creams that are good for your skin. I go to a cosmetologist who prepares my face cream. Try to stay away from over-the-counter products that you can get at drugstores as the quality is low. Use something you would find at a dermatologist/cosmetologist’s office. High quality makeup is crucial too. I realized it is better to have 10 pieces of high quality makeup than 50 of half-good quality that one ends up throwing away because it went bad. I love peelings (both face and body). It is important to drink a lot of fluids, and to exercise (although I am not very disciplined there).

Lola: Cosmetics recommendations?
Miss Irena: My face cream is Chris Farell – Purell Skin Balancer. It is a cream for oily skin, it smells divinely, and the texture is wonderful. For body, I use Dove. As far as shampoos, I buy professional ones, for quality. I like brands Bonacure, and Loreal Professional. I use different kinds of makeup, although I love Biotherm, Clinique, and Dior. Loreal is also good. Overall, if you do one good thing for your face, it would be to have a consultation with a dermatologist or a cosmetologist.

FINAL WORDS FOR READERS

Miss Irena: An individual needs to feel hope, love herself, and work on herself throughout her life. Those three things are key! Satisfaction with oneself is the most important thing in life, as without it, one cannot succeed in a career, relationship or a friendship… a person, then, cannot succeed in any social field without it. You need to be your own best friend, and strive to know yourself. I have also come to a conclusion that nothing is eternal, both pain and happiness come, go away, and return again. Life is not one straight line: sometimes you fly, while sometimes you fall. Truly: life is like a box of chocolates – you never know what you’ll get. It is up to us to learn from our mistakes, and to try not to repeat them. I believe in justice, and that everything in life – good and bad – comes back. That is why you shouldn’t ponder “why is this happening to me?” because every event has some meaning. With everything we experience we come out smarter, different, and stronger. Be honest with yourself, and listen to your inner voice. Mine never disappointed me!

Awwwwwwww! It’s easy to love Miss Irena! I hope you enjoyed this as much as I did. Please feel free to comment!
<3,
Lola

Women Of The World: Austria Part 1

January 31st, 2009 § 0

(The Cathedral)

LIFE IN LAND OF AUSTRIA

It would seem logical our knowledge of life in different countries would expand parallel to the globe becoming smaller. Yet we all could sharpen this image. In an effort to learn more about what it takes to be an Icelander, live in Indonesia, or dance in Canada, CWL is adding a column: „Women Around the World“. Goal: to interview a young woman from every country on the globe. Motive: to discover her dreams, her life, her country, and of course, her fashion. Secret Motive: to expand the globe by celebrating everyday muti-cultural, successful, sexy women…

First country on the list is Austria, not because of the alphabet, but because the girl I interviewed is so delicious I had to share her with you! We have been friends for over two decades, and I was excited she agreed to be my first interviewee. Without further ado, I present to you MISS IRENA!!!

FIRST THE INTRODUCTIONS!

Lola: Tell us who you are, what you do, and where your passions lie?
Miss Irena: I am a twenty-six years old student of Pedagogy. I also work in the afternoon program of an elementary school. I love to read about politics, religion, and philosophy. My passions include (like most women), clothes, and shoes. I love a fun evening out, and spending time with friends.

Lola: Hobbies?
Miss Irena: I love to read, to watch a good movie, and am about to start practicing yoga soon. I read a lot about it, and it appeals to me, so I’ve decided yoga will be my ‘real’ hobby.

Lola: Why did you decide to live in Austria?
Miss Irena: I formed my social circle, schooled myself, and integrated myself into this country. I am not sure that I will stay here forever, but currently like living here very much.

Lola: What’s your satisfaction with life in Vienna 0-10 (0=worst, 10=best), and why?
Miss Irena: 7; Vienna strives for complete satisfaction, and there is always a little something that could improve. Especially in Vienna.

Lola: What do you love about the country?
Miss Irena: Austria is a small, but beautiful country. The Alps are very special, gorgeous really, as are the small, soulful towns. Vienna is a good city to live in as there are always some exhibitions, theater productions, and are a lot of places to go out to. There is something for every taste.

Lola: What would you like to see improve?
Miss Irena: I’d love for Vienna to acquire certain characteristics of a big city, like London and Paris – meaning to be infused with creativity (such as fashion, designers, high quality night clubs, and for night life to expand). I don’t want it to sound as if Vienna isn’t a metropolitan, but in my opinion, it is still far from real, worldly metropolitans. Simply, it is not yet boiling with life like other cities.

(Wien)

SCHOOL AND CAREER

Lola: Describe for us the educational system in the country?
Miss Irena: The educational system in Austria looks something like this: all children attend first 4 grades together – sort of like the elementary school. Then comes the division of kids into «Hauptschule» (higher elementary school), and «Gymnasium Unterstufe» (lower level of high school). Both last for four years, and students then transition to a real high school. High school choices are «Gymnasium Oberstufe» (higher level of high school), trade high schools, merchant high schools, economics high schools, and so on. A person can attend university only if they pass high school. Otherwise they have to pass certain subjects to be admitted. The university costs 380 Euros per semester. The admission process for the university practically doesn’t exist except for the programs that are in high demand such as medicine, and psychology. These are not your regular admittance exams, in fact all students are accepted. However the exams select which students can attend classes immediately, and which students have to wait another year for placement.

In totality Austrian system of education is somewhat old comparing to other countries, due to its a certain characteristic of inequality. Children from higher social structures have a better chance for higher quality education. Children from lower social stratus are encouraged to attend «Hauptstchule» which means there is already a cut; they are already being predisposed to a more limited future. For example not very many of those kids attend high school, nor university. This early selection, at 10 years of age, immediately splits children into two different classes of people.

Lola: Can one change their career if they are dissatisfied?
Miss Irena: The system is somewhat flexible, and you can transfer from one branch to another, but career cannot be completely changed. Most people stay in their own routine jobs/fields.

Lola: What are some popular careers for women?
Miss Irena: As far as trade careers definitely those of the hair stylist and secretary. This is the business choice for many young women, and they educate themselves accordingly. As far as academic jobs marketing, consulting, and economics are popular. This is shown by the number of girls in the field of economics in Vienna. There is also the classic medicine or law road. I mean these are all examples – I cannot be concrete as career is such a personal subject, and every woman would answer this question very differently.

Lola: What kind of annual income can give one a decent life in Vienna?
Miss Irena: I’d say 20,000€/year allows for a good life in Vienna. Average income is about 1,300-1,600€ monthly + 1 pay for summer/Christmas vacation. So let’s say 1600€ is enough for a single person to have a carefree life.

Lola: Do most young people live by themselves, or with parents?
Miss Irena: Most young people live by themselves. Relative move-out age depends from person to person, and whether the young person went straight into the work force at 19, or continued on to the university. If they decided to work they are likely to move out earlier. If they chose to attend the university some students move out right away, and some later during the schooling. Young people who come from the province into Vienna for the university live by themselves, or with roommates. Living with roommates is very popular for students in Vienna, regardless whether they are Viennese or «from the side», «Wohngemeinschaft». This generally involves a big apartment with four roommates, or living in dorms.

RIGHTS & OPPORTUNITIES

Lola: What are the opportunities for home ownership?
Miss Irena: There are many different opportunities. State-owned apartments are somewhat more affordable than renting. Every Austrian has a right for one of those up until the age of 30, as do big families, lower-income individuals, etc… One waits about 1-2 years for these. There is the regular renting, and something we call «genossenschaft», a down payment while the building is in construction, but once you move in you would pay about 100-200 less than renting. There is a good supply of apartments, but like in most European cities, they are expensive.

Lola: How do women live in Austria? How does the equality play out in reality?
Miss Irena: Women in Austria live well in comparison with many of the world’s countries. Of course this in large depends on the kind of job, and social structure the woman lives in. However, one can say that overall there are a lot of opportunities, and rights for women here, starting with schooling, jobs, and state help for stay at home moms. A big problem is the eventual re-integration into job force once a woman returns from maternity leave. This is something the country is working on though. Some statistics say women earn less than men in certain branches, but in my opinion Austria is one very «frauenfreundlich» country – country good for women.

Lola: How do other minorities live?
Miss Irena: People more or less live in their own communities. There are no «ghettos» such as in France, but there are migrant neighborhoods. The problem of integration is alive in Austria. It is a complicated issue, one of the egg and the hen. Do the immigrants really want to integrate into Austrian society? Did Austria give them a fair ability to do so? It’s a never ending topic. Other minorities such as people with disabilities, and gays live well. They have many organizations, and are well protected by the state. For example gays have a great status in the society, and the anti-discriminatory laws based on sexual orientation are in practice. However, they still do not have a right to marry, or to adopt children. People with special needs, along with people with disabilities are very well integrated into Austrian society.

(Passage, Museumsquartier)

VIENNA LIFESTYLE & NIGHTLIFE

Lola: Where does one go out in Vienna, and what does one do in their spare time?
Miss Irena: That question is hard to answer globally. «In» places change, but lately there is a popularity of «Museumsquartier» places consisting of a few museums with well known coffee shops, bars, clubs, and restaurants. In the middle of the complex there is generally a park with nicely designed benches. As far as nightlife, there are many discotheques/clubs for every type of music, and public preference. «Passage» is sort of a hipster club filled to capacity on weekends. One has to wait up to an hour to get in. The entire city goes out there right now, and if a celebrity visits Vienna, this is a place they will visit. Next door is «Volksgarten», one older and well known club with different music every night. Alternative bars and clubs are b72, and Chelsea.

(Danube)

A few months ago coffee shop/bar/restaurant «Freiraum“ (free room) opened. It immediately became very popular. Their philosophy is: «cocktail in the restaurant, steak at the bar, breakfast at midnight, champagne on the old couch». Which means the entire area is a bar, coffee shop, and the restaurant. This innovative idea works very well.

In their free time people visit each other, they go on the Internet, go shopping, or for a walk. When it is warm the Danube has a million possibilities for sports and recreation. The Danube and Viennese have a very deep connection. There is «Donauinsel» , the Danube-Island, where people practice sports, etc.. There are also bars and clubs opened only during summer time; it is magical to spend an evening in one of those – you have a feeling that you are on the seaside. There are a few international restaurants (Greek, Mexican, etc), and coffee shops (Jamaica, Caribbean, etc.). All are very well designed, and have become well known with tourists and Viennese alike.

Also, let’s not forget the biggest Open-Air Festival in the world, the «Donauinselfest» happening every June for the past twenty years. It lasts three days, with two million visitors.

(Freiraum)

Lola: Where do you go out to?
Miss Irena: Clubs Volksgarten,Babenberger, and Passage. As far as restaurants/coffee shops I visit Freiraum, and Stylez.

Lola: Additional places you suggest for a tourist visiting?
Miss Irena: Well, there is the classical sightseeing: city’s center, the Cathedral, the opera, few museums, (most definitely MQ – Museumsquartier), Mariahilferstrasse – longest shopping street in Vienna. It is interesting that the greatest shopping center in Europe is here. It is incredibly big and supplied with everything!

Lola: Are there holidays original to Austria?
Miss Irena: No, but we celebrate the February carnival «Fasching». Halloween is becoming more popular by the year. The most celebrated holiday is Christmas. During the time of advent, Vienna holds a huge Christmas market. People go there to buy ornaments for their Christmas trees, sweets, and they drink punch or cooked wine. Then the season of balls begins, from middle of January until the end of February. This is a huge tradition! There is a ball for everyone: police ball, student ball, bakers ball… Apex of the balls is, of course, the «Opernball», or Vienna Opera Ball visited by the VIPs, politicians, and stars.

(Stay tuned for PART 2 in which we discuss love, fashion, and sex!)

<3
Lola

Sarajevo Is…

January 10th, 2009 § 0

This piece depicts certain originalities of Sarajevo. Written by Aleksandar Hemon, and borrowed from habitusmag.

Sarajevo Is…

The taxi driver who drove me from the airport and, when I observed that the leaves were already beginning to fall, replied: “Why, yes, first watermelons, then lessons,” which, on close analysis, I understood as representing a magic formula to describe the gradual approach of autumn.

The moment when, from Jekovac, after the Ramazan cannon fires to indicate sunset, you see the lights on all the minarets of Sarajevo simultaneously ignite.

The clatter of the first morning tram, echoing through the empty streets of the city.

The coldness of the buildings from the Austro-Hungarian era and the staircases inside them, with their treads worn by the soles that have climbed them for more than a century.

Somun—soft, white bread—(scattered with seeds) from the baker’s in Kovači.

Children’s balls, rolling in the shallow eddies of the Miljacka river.

The beauty of Sarajevo women, who always bear in them the imprint of their own past and their own future; the history of past and future changes: their faces reveal both skinny little girls and mature women, both minxes and careworn matrons.

The sfumato of a cold Sarajevo morning, before the sun steals up behind the mountains, and mist drifts up the slopes.

Škembići—tripe—at Hadžibajrić’s.

The fruit that grows on bushes throughout Sarajevo, known as “white berries.”

The slender cat, a striped market stray, that rolls on the pile of Persian carpets in Morić-han.

The round tray that rotates on the tip of a waiter’s forefinger.

The pigeons’ rally on Sebilje.

The aroma of cheese, cream, meat, and marble in the market.

The peal of church bells at six o’clock in the morning.

The way the Sarajevo accent bursts the speaker’s lips, because of the rumbling consonants and swallowed vowels, which looks particularly good on women with full lips.

Autumn leaves, ankle-deep, in Wilson’s Walk, and the sound of ripe chestnuts breaking off, hurtling through the branches, then hitting the soft carpet of leaves.

A white-wine spritzer at Ramiz’s.

The scent of old cellars: coal, dust, tubs for souring cabbage,mildew.

The lights that glint on the hills around Sarajevo at night, like stars that fall slowly, the way snowflakes do.

The sound of a deflated ball kicked around by children in the
open spaces of New Sarajevo.

The hissing of rain on streets under the wheels of cars.

Carved cartridge cases in the Kujundžiluk.

The chirping of radio stations in taxis.

The rheumatic hands of old men behind their backs as they watch a game of chess with giant pieces in front of the ghostly Department Store.

Ice cream with the flavor of “Egyptian vanilla” (whatever that is) at the Egypt pastry shop.

The green turf of Željo’s Stadium.

Asphalt full of hollows, holes, puddles, and the “roses” of shell craters, never perfect, always spattered.

The brief jerk of the head to one side that accompanies the response “Okay…” to the question, “How’re things?”

The intense colors of autumn fruit and vegetables softened by the shade of the beams at the Markale Market.

Meatballs—ćevapi—anywhere in town.

Sorrel that goes to seed in less than fifteen minutes.

The hardness of the stone you touch when you bend to drink a mouthful of water at the Gazi Husref-Beg Mosque.

The hum of Sarajevo heard from Hrid or Trebević—all the sounds of the city merged into one.

The silence that accompanies the first snowfall, as though everything and everyone were hushed with wistful excitement.

The long shadows of the trees in the Big Park on a September afternoon.

The collection of stuffed animals in the National Museum.

The statues in front of the National Bank, eternal guards of the Čeka, holding helmet-lights above their heads.

The rhythm of the tread of the elderly in Ferhadija, harmonizing with the rhythm of their conversation—a syntax of footsteps.

A cheap football shirt with the name Zinedine Zidane on the back of a grimy boy.

Tito’s portrait in the goldsmith’s in Ćaršija.

Underpants and stockings in the passage beside The Imperial.

The aroma clothes carry in them after a stay in Sarajevo: a mixture of sweat, cigarette smoke, ćevapi, washing in Sarajevo water, and drying in the open air.

The people of Sarajevo: the clever and the churlish, the greedy and the handsome, the weary and the young, youthful and crazy, rich and wretched, sturdy and sick, tall and rundown, the angry and the underhanded, the tricksters and the brilliant, the Diaspora and locals, children and adults, the faithful and infidels, the powerful and the pious—all in all, nearly four-hundred-thousand
urban atoms.

And let us be honest, there’s no end. You either love Sarajevo or you don’t.